3D Printing Settings for Various Materials
PLA
Lorin Parker's basic print settings (will vary with print and material). These are my starting points. Many more variables come into play, and these will require adjustment as needed. However, this works with most stuff.
Ultimaker2:
Surface: Just glass or glass with very light swipes of Elmer's disappearing purple gluestick (awesome). Thin / spread with a little water (damp towel) and it'll dry in a nice coat when bed heats.
Extruder Temp: 210C (205C if moving slowly)
Bed Temp: 60C
Retraction: 1mm per 0.1 mm of nozzle diameter. (ie 0.4mm nozzle = 4mm retraction)
Layer height: 0.1 to 2.5 (0.4mm nozzle)
First layer height: 140% (if using thick layer heights %125) -- this evens out inconsitencies of bed surface, height.
Cooling: 1st layer, no fan. 2nd layer through end, 100% fan.
Speed: 60mm/sec, 65%-75% underspeed on outside layers & solid fill. (beginners might want to start at 40mm/sec and ramp up).
Non Print Movement Speed: 100mm/sec
Printrbot Simple Metal:
Surface: Blue tape and purple elmer's stick.
Extruder Temp: 205C
Bed Temp: 0C
Retraction: 1mm per 0.1 mm of nozzle diameter. (ie 0.4mm nozzle = 4mm retraction)
Layer height: 0.1 to 2.5 (0.4mm nozzle)
First layer height: 140% (if using thick layer heights %125) -- this evens out inconsitencies of bed surface, height.
Cooling: 1st layer, no fan. 2nd layer through end, 100% fan.
Speed: 50mm/sec, 65%-75% underspeed on outside layers & solid fill. (beginners might want to start at 40mm/sec and ramp up).
Non Print Movement Speed: 80mm/sec
PETG
PetG filament is very strong, stiff, and slightly flexible. It is finicky and tricky to print with -- the settings must be precise. Once you get it dialed in, it's terrific. Lorin prefer's it to ABS in almost all cases when PLA is not suited. PETG or PETT (also colorfabb XT) prints a bit like PLA, but HOT. The secret is to lay it down quickly and cool it off quickly (use 30%-50% fan in most cases). Retraction should be as fast as possible to prevent stringing. Non-print moves should be fast as possible for same reason. PET plastics can vary in temps from 120C to 160C, it depends on the filament formula. You can print PET with an unheated bed, but it's trickier. Also, beware, this stuff STICKS. If adhesion is good it's often really really hard to get off the bed -- put the bed in the freezer for 30 minutes and then use a razor to seperate. Do not force PET off a bed, adhesion can be so strong that it will crack bed or even lift chunks of glass with it! Use the freezer trick, or turn an air-duster can upside down and spray with the freezing liquid at base of object (after slow cooling -- do not do this to warm glass).
Warning: PET hates mixing with PLA. If there is any PLA in the nozzle, the PET will not stick, might crystalize, and will just suck. Try flushing a little ABS, Nylon, HIPS filament between PLA and PET prints. Get the PLA out first. This factor ruins a lot of peoples' prints needlessly.
Lorin's settings for Taulman Tech-G (very strong and flexible too):
Ultimaker2
Filament: Taulman Tech-G -- tends to print hotter than others. Not glass clear. Designed for strength. FDA approved.
Surface: Glass with elmer's purple stick & a bit of water.
Extruder temp: 245 - 252
Bed temp: 45
Retraction: 0.5mm per 0.1 mm of nozzle diameter. (ie 0.4mm nozzle = 2mm retraction)
Retraction Speed: 45mm/s
Layer height: 0.1 to 0.2 (0.4mm nozzle)
First layer height: 140% (if using thick layer heights %125) -- this evens out inconsitencies of bed surface, height.
Cooling: 1st layer, no fan. 2nd layer through end, 30% to 50% fan. Watch out that cooling fan doesn't affect hot end temp...
Speed: 50mm/sec, 85% underspeed on outside layers & solid fill. (beginners might want to start at 30mm/sec and ramp up). Consistent speeds help.
Non Print Movement Speed: 200mm/sec
Bridging: Not as good as PLA, but way way way better than ABS. Do slightly tighter infill than PLA and maybe an extra top and bottom layer.