Delta 20" Band Saw - Wood
|List of All Documented Equipment|
|Owner/Loaner: Loan from Sean P.|
|Hive13 Asset Tag: HV00??|
|Make/Model: Delta 28-654 (google)|
|Arrival Date: 01/2022|
|Does it work?: yes|
|Certification Needed?: yes|
|Contact: User:Dave or Sean P.|
This Band Saw is for re-saw and large wood pieces - Certification is Required
- unplug the saw, use the knob under the top wheel of the saw to relieve the tension on the blade, and remove the old blade.
- back off all guides and thrust bearings (two guides and a bearing above the table, two guides and a bearing below the table)
- put the upper guide at mid height
- lower the upper wheel all the way
- install the blade around both wheels, ensuring the teeth cut down into the table.
- add tension with the knob top wheel knob until blade has tension.
- check the blade tracking by spinning the upper wheel by hand. The blade teeth should ride at the center of the wheel, unless the blade is one wide enough that that would make it hang off the back of the wheel, the back edge of the blade should always be on the tire, but with the teeth as close to the middle as possible. To adjust the tracking, turn the knob on the backside of the top wheel until the blade rides where you want it.
- add tension to the blade
- recheck the tracking,
- assure the guide post moves vertically in the track. Because of play in the ways, you will need to raise and lower the guide post, securing it by tightening the knob at various heights to determine if the alignment is truly vertical.
- adjust the upper guide bearings forward till the front of them are behind the gullets of the blade teeth by about 1/16", Rotate the bearing lock cam and tighten the set screw
- adjust the upper guide bearings in toward the blade so that they just barely touch it, ensuring the blade isn't deflected either way by them, it should run exactly where it was without the bearings adjusted in. They should touch the blade, but not pinch it adding and resistance or hang up on the blade weld.
- adjust the lower guide bearings exactly the same as in 10 and 11, note you may have to bring the lower bearing forward towards the blade to allow the bearings to reach the appropriate spot just behind the gullets of the blade teeth.
- adjust the upper thrust bearing forward till it just barely contacts the blade, but doesn't deflect the blade forward. It should spin some when you spin the blade, but not the whole way around. It should not allow the blade to deflect backwards if you push on the blade. Lock the adjustment with the set screw when done
- adjust the lower thrust bearing the same.
- spin the wheels to ensure there is no rubbing anywhere, and all adjustments still look good
- close the wheel covers
- attach the dust boot under the table to the vacuum cleaner
- adjust the upper blade guide to just above the thickness of the material you need to cut
- plug in, and turn on the saw, check for rubbing, if sounds good, make a test cut to ensure everything looks good.
it is 100% ESSENTIAL that EVERY time a bandsaw blade is changed, the entire saw must be readjusted. if you use the saw without verifying it is adjusted IT WILL RUIN THE BLADE.
the following video does a good job of quickly explaining the process:
A few key points that are easy to overlook, but very important:
There are two sets of guides, one above the table that you can walk up and see, one below the table that is just as important. BEFORE putting the blade on, pull the guide bearings and thrust bearings back on both upper and lower guides. if you do not do this, pulling the blade through those guide blocks will squish the teeth removing the blade's set and making it trash. without tooth set band saw blades cannot cut, they just burn Adjust the tracking of the blade turning the wheels by hand. Only power on the saw once they are tracking in place by hand and without the guide bearings touching the blade. Only power the saw on long enough to see the tracking is good under power, do not attempt to make a cut until the guides and bearings are adjusted. The guide blocks should support the blade BEHIND the tooth gullets. If the guide bearings touch the tooth, even in the gullet, it will ruin the blade. the guide bearings must also have just enough clearance to allow the blade to pass through without binding at the weld in the blade. Remember that both UPPER and LOWER pairs of guide bearings must be adjusted The upper and lower thrust bearings should be brought up just behind where the blade tracks on the wheels. they should not turn while the saw is not loaded except maybe a quick jump once or twice per rotation (typically at the weld). The bearings will turn when the blade is loaded by a workpiece, but should not when the blade is running free An additional point not covered in the video is that different blades have different purposes. DO NOT CUT CURVES WITH THE THICK BLADE (5/8" or 3/4"). It is for straight line cuts and resawing. Here is a handy chart for what thickness blades can be used for cutting what curves:
It is every member's responsibility to make sure the bandsaw is adjusted before using it, even if you are not the one who changed the blade. If anyone needs an in-person demo to make sure you have the process down, please don't hesitate to ask for help.
Band length is 149 1/2 to 150 inches