|List of All Documented Equipment|
|Hive13 Asset Tag: HV0096|
|Make/Model: Delta 28-203 (google)|
|Arrival Date: 01/2011|
|Does it work?: yes|
|Certification Needed?: no|
We have a bandsaw problem... Hive13 members have been slaughtering the bandsaw blades we bought. I just ordered some more, but to try and curb the damage rate, please everyone who chooses to use the bandsaw read/watch below.
it is 100% ESSENTIAL that EVERY time a bandsaw blade is changed, the entire saw must be readjusted. if you use the saw without verifying it is adjusted IT WILL RUIN THE BLADE.
the following video does a good job of quickly explaining the process:
while I take exception to his claims of 3 TPI being good for everything (I would argue for any thin material you need at least 2 whole teeth to fall within the thickness of the material being cut) and his method for aligning the fence, the rest of the video is spot on.
A few key points that are easy to overlook, but very important:
There are two sets of guides, one above the table that you can walk up and see, one below the table that is just as important. BEFORE putting the blade on, pull the guid blocks and thrust bearings back on both upper and lower guides. if you do not do this, pulling the blade through those guide blocks will squish the teeth removing the blade's set and making it trash. without tooth set bandsaw blades cannot cut, they just burn Adjust the tracking of the blade turning the wheels by hand. Only power on the saw once they are tracking in place by hand and without the guid blocks.bearings touching the blade. Only power the saw on long enough to see the tracking is good under power, do not attempt to make a cut until the guides and bearings are adjusted. The guide blocks should support the blade BEHIND the tooth gullets. If the guide blocks touch the tooth, even in the gullet, it will ruin the blade. the guide blocks must also have just enough clearance to allow the blade to pass through without binding at the weld in the blade. Remember that both UPPER and LOWER pairs of guide blocks must be adjusted The upper and lower thrust bearings should be brought up just behind where the blade tracks on the wheels. they should not turn while the saw is not loaded except maybe a quick jump once or twice per rotation (typically at the weld). The bearings will turn when the blade is loaded by a workpiece, but should not when the blade is running free An additional point not covered in the video is that different blades have different purposes. DO NOT CUT CURVES WITH THE THICK BLADE (5/8" or 3/4"). It is for straight line cuts and resawing. Here is a handy chart for what thickness blades can be used for cutting what curves:
Because we have lots of members who use the bandsaw for quick walk-up cuts, please make sure the 1/4" blade is the one that stays on the saw. If you need to use another blade to do fine scroll work or resaw, CHANGE IT BACK WHEN DONE. the 1/4" x 6 TPI blades we have are good general purpose blades for 90% of what our bandsaw gets used for at Hive13. Thus, It should be the one to stay on the saw.
It is every member's responsibility to make sure the bandsaw is adjusted before using it, even if you are not the one who changed the blade. If anyone needs an in-person demo to make sure you have the process down, please don't hesitate to ask for help.
Manual: File:Delta Bandsaw 28-303.pdf
Band length is 93 1/2 inches.
Good blades to keep around: (taken from this thread: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?149862-Lets-talk-bandsaw-blades!) "There are a lot of different bandsaw blades and it is easy to feel like you need a different blade for every cut but I find you can do most of your cutting with 3-4 blades: 1. 1/2" 3 TPI Hook, if for a low HP 14" cast clone I would get a .022 gauge Woodslicer et al 2. 1/4" 6 TPI skip or hook 3. 1/8" 14 TPI standard 4. If you have a saw that can tension a bigger blade add a 4th blade, the biggest blade it will tension, hook, variable pitch in the range of 2-3TPI or 1.3-3 TPI (note the Lenox Woodmasters I mention below are NOT available in variable pitch smaller than 2" but they still do a great job in non-variable pitch)
For a cast clone I would get the 1/2" in a hardened spring steel as mentioned but the 1/4" in bimetal and the 1/8" in carbon. If you do a lot of resawing on a cast clone I would try a thin gauge 1/2" bimetal blade maybe a .025 4 TPI hook Lenox Diemaster 2.
For steel spined saws all the blades (except the 1/8") would be bimetal unless you want to spend the money on a carbide resaw blade.
For smaller than 1/4" blades I like Starrett carbon
For 1/4"-1/2" general purpose I like the bimetal Lenox Diemaster 2
For 1/2-5/8" resaw blades I like the spring steel Kerfmaster, Woodslicer Bladerunner, again these are recommended for 14" cast clones
For 3/4" and up resaw blades I like four, the Lenox Woodmaster B (bimetal only in 1" and up), Lenox Woodmaster CT (carbide 1" and up), Lenox Trimaster (carbide 3/4" and up) and the Laguna Resaw King 3/4"-1 1/4". The Laguna has the benefit of being the only one that you can get resharpened. "
Also: (taken from this thread: http://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/23tljp/band_saw_blade_suggestions/ ) "Generally, most people like the Timberwolf series of blades; Olsen also makes good blades. Both are available at Woodcraft, and are often on sale. I have some of both and they each do a fine job. As for which size, typically you will want to run a 3/4 inch blades at 3 tpi, or a 2/3 tpi "skip raker" blade. Either will work, but resawing will challenge your saw and yourself - proper saw setup &tuning is a must, along with blade tension. Smaller blades for doing radius like for bandsaw boxes - get a 12 or 14 tpi blade, and then dress the back of it so you can turn the radius without the square edges digging in."
How to use the floor model bandsaw