Delta 14" Bandsaw: Difference between revisions

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48 bytes removed ,  19:26, 12 October 2021
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==Blade change/Adjustment==
==Blade change/Adjustment==


1) unplug the saw, remove the old blade
#unplug the saw, remove the old blade.
2) back off all guides and thrust bearings (two guides and a bearing above the table, two guides and a bearing below the table)
3) put the upper guide at mid height
4) lower the upper wheel with the knob on top all the way
5) install the blade around both wheels, ensuring the teeth cut down into the table.
6) add tension with the knob on top till the red washer lines up with the lowest blade width increment (1/8") on the bearing block in the back
7) check the blade tracking by spinning the upper wheel by hand. The blade teeth should ride at the center of the wheel, unless the blade is one wide enough that that would make it hang off the back of the wheel, the back edge of the blade should always be on the tire, but with the teeth as close to the middle as possible.  To adjust the tracking, loosen the wing nut and adjust the thumb screw on the back of the bearing block in and out till the blade rides where you want it.
8) add tension till the red washer lines up with the mark on the back corresponding to the front to back width of the blade
9) recheck the tracking, and when it's good, tighten down the wing nut
10) adjust the upper guide blocks forward till the front of them are behind the gullets of the blade teeth by about 1/16", lock the adjustment with the thumb screw
11) adjust the upper guide blocks in toward the blade so that they just barely touch it, ensuring the blade isn't deflected either way by them, it should run exactly where it was without the blocks adjusted in. They should touch the blade, but not pinch it adding and resistance or hang up on the blade weld.
12) adjust the lower guide blocks exactly the same as in 10 and 11, note you may have to bring the lower bearing forward towards the blade to allow the blocks to reach the appropriate spot just behind the gullets of the blade teeth.
13) adjust the upper thrust bearing forward till it just barely contacts the blade, but doesn't deflect the blade forward. It should spin some when you spin the blade, but not the whole way around. It should not allow the blade to deflect backwards if you push on the blade. Lock the adjustment with the thumb screw when done
14) adjust the lower thrust bearing the same.
15) spin the wheels to ensure there is no rubbing anywhere, and all adjustments still look good
15) close the wheel covers
16) snap the dust boot under the table back in place
17) adjust the upper blade guide to just above the thickness of the material you need to cut
17) plug in, and turn on the saw, check for rubbing, if sounds good, make a test cut to ensure everything looks good.


#back off all guides and thrust bearings (two guides and a bearing above the table, two guides and a bearing below the table)
#put the upper guide at mid height
#lower the upper wheel with the knob on top all the way
#install the blade around both wheels, ensuring the teeth cut down into the table.
#add tension with the knob on top till the red washer lines up with the lowest blade width increment (1/8") on the bearing block in the back
#check the blade tracking by spinning the upper wheel by hand. The blade teeth should ride at the center of the wheel, unless the blade is one wide enough that that would make it hang off the back of the wheel, the back edge of the blade should always be on the tire, but with the teeth as close to the middle as possible.  To adjust the tracking, loosen the wing nut and adjust the thumb screw on the back of the bearing block in and out till the blade rides where you want it.
#add tension till the red washer lines up with the mark on the back corresponding to the front to back width of the blade
#recheck the tracking, and when it's good, tighten down the wing nut
#adjust the upper guide blocks forward till the front of them are behind the gullets of the blade teeth by about 1/16", lock the adjustment with the thumb screw
#adjust the upper guide blocks in toward the blade so that they just barely touch it, ensuring the blade isn't deflected either way by them, it should run exactly where it was without the blocks adjusted in. They should touch the blade, but not pinch it adding and resistance or hang up on the blade weld.
#adjust the lower guide blocks exactly the same as in 10 and 11, note you may have to bring the lower bearing forward towards the blade to allow the blocks to reach the appropriate spot just behind the gullets of the blade teeth.
#adjust the upper thrust bearing forward till it just barely contacts the blade, but doesn't deflect the blade forward. It should spin some when you spin the blade, but not the whole way around. It should not allow the blade to deflect backwards if you push on the blade. Lock the adjustment with the thumb screw when done
#adjust the lower thrust bearing the same.
#spin the wheels to ensure there is no rubbing anywhere, and all adjustments still look good
#close the wheel covers
#snap the dust boot under the table back in place
#adjust the upper blade guide to just above the thickness of the material you need to cut
#plug in, and turn on the saw, check for rubbing, if sounds good, make a test cut to ensure everything looks good.


== Old mailing list post ==
 
==Old mailing list post==
We have a bandsaw problem...  Hive13 members have been slaughtering the bandsaw blades we bought.  I just ordered some more, but to try and curb the damage rate, please everyone who chooses to use the bandsaw read/watch below.
We have a bandsaw problem...  Hive13 members have been slaughtering the bandsaw blades we bought.  I just ordered some more, but to try and curb the damage rate, please everyone who chooses to use the bandsaw read/watch below.


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